DazMode

This is Part 2 of DazMode Labs watercooled system build log. In previous thread, I have recorded HAF932 paint job experience, now it is time to assemble our system.

This tutorial will cover creation of single CPU watercooling loop which has enough capacity to handle GPU and chipset blocks down to the road or run system in ultra quiet mode with silent fans.

The following parts were used:

Feser triple radiator - $140
Koolance 1200-2500 RPM controllable fan (3) - $11 ea.
Swiftech GTZ Block - $64
i7 GTZ adapter plate - $9
EK Multi-option 150 reservoir with anti-cyclone add-on - $62
Swiftech 655-B pump - $76
Tubing 1/2" OD (5ft) - $14
Fittings 1/2" OD (8) - $5 ea.
Stop fittings (drain valves) (2) -$2.5 ea.
Hose clamps (10) - $0.69 ea.
Distilled water (untreated) - $1.99

Cost of build (w/o taxes) - $452. Not to chubby, but watercooling has never been a cheapest modding option.

My first step is entirely optional. I assembled system with all stock parts without water cooling components to verify that system works, plus I wanted to install Windows.

It is up to you to follow my suit or skip this step and build watercooling setup right away.

For purpose of this watercooling guide, I will omit description of basic PC assembly.

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It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

As you can see from pictures above, I did not bothered with perfect assembly and all unessential cables connections, such as front panel USB, Audio and SATA ports.

All I needed was to have major parts in place, so I can visualize and make my watercooling layout decisions.

There are few moments you need to keep in mind when making you own layout:

1. It is a good practice to minimize your tubing runs. Shorter tubing will yield better cooling performance and cost less;
2. Do not make sharp tubing turns to avoid kinking and decreased performance. If sharp turns are unavoidable use 45 or 90 degrees angled fitting;
3. Follow loop sequence design rule: from the Pump -> Radiator -> CPU Block -> GPU/Chipset blocks -> Reservoir -> back to the Pump.

I've made the following layout decision in my design:

a. Radiator goes on top of the case and power supply goes to the bottom;

b. Fans on radiator will work on intake (i.e. fresh air goes from outside and pushed through radiator into the case);
Many people will disagree with me on this and will recommend the other way around to avoid overheating of internal components. In this particular setup with a massive triple radiator, I can't see this ever happening.

c. Water pump goes in 5.25" bays area. By doing this I'm gaining shortest possible tube runs, but sacrifice my internal optical drive (no space). Not everybody would do that, so it is important to mention that would you put your pump on the bottom of the case, you will need more then 5 feet of tubing I have used;

d. Reservoir goes next to pump by the motherboard.

Next step is to put parts physically inside the case and see how do they fit. I started with radiator and fans.

First order of business is clean your radiator. Forget washing your rad with vinegar, Feser specifically warns you against it. All you need to flash it several time with tap water and flash it ones (last time) with distilled water.

IMPORTANT WARNING: Make sure you don't grab you radiator by its fins or you will bend them very easily. Repair will not look nice at all.

_________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

When done with radiator washing, attach your fans to radiator (use supplied rubber silencers to reduce nose), add two fittings and attach the whole assembly to the case. Make sure you select appropriate screws which are not too long to ruin your rad.

Attach or at least put in place pump and reservoir to see if you have any flows in your layout ideas. For instance, originally I planned to turn pump inlet towards reservoir outlet, but it turns out that it much easier to have them at 90 degrees.

In my case I went ahead and attached reservoir and pump in their respective places and connected them to each other. Refrasing old saying: Measure 7 times, before cut tubing.

Do not over tighten clamps, plastic barbs can easily collapse or you can cut trough the tube.

REMEMBER: Do not test dry pump. It may damage your pump and void your warranty.

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It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

Now is time to turn attention to CPU block.

I will be using Swiftech GTZ and it is important to mention that GTZ comes assembled with LGA755 retention plate, to make it compatible with LGA1366 based i7 processor an appropriate hold down plate needs to be installed.

Replacing hold down plate requires block disassemble and it good idea to flash block with tap water, unlike radiator flash just rinse with running water and rinse it again with distilled water.

I've found the most challenging part is moving hold down crews from one plate to another. Those fixation rings are pain in the neck to take out and put back (see last pic).

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It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

When GTZ is ready to go with LGA1366 compatible plate installed, lets put it on.

Here we coming to one of few stupid things about HAF932 case. The hole on motherboard tray is totally useless as it mismatched with CPU layout (see first picture below), so in order to install CPU waterblock you have to take motherboard out. *sensored*

The good news GTZ is very easy block to install. The only tricky part is to remember that GTZ requires specific orientation, which you must to follow.

1. Take GTZ backplate, remove protection from sticky pads and simply put it on the back of your motehrboard as shown on second picture.
2. Apply thin layer of thermal paste on CPU. The easiest tool to use is clean credit card.
3.Put GTZ on CPU (you can wiggle it a little bit) and screw retention screws into back plate in cross-X manner, i.e. tighten opposite screws pair, then the other pair, then first one again and so on until it stops. Congratulations you are done.

Finish up you assembly with measuring, cutting and installing remaining tubing. Do not forget to make provisioning for filling your loop (top of your reservoir) and for draining your loop (bottom of your reservoir). Pay attention to what is inlet and what is outlet on GTZ block when run your tubing. Radiator must be connected to inlet and reservour connected to outlet of GTZ block.

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It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

Time to fill the loop, for that you will need an external power supply source to run your pump as you can not power up your system without proper CPU cooling. I used external IDE harddrive docking station or I could use other PC to "borrow" molex power connector from it.

Another useful tool is funnel. I used tubing leftovers and plastic barb to make simple spill-proof solution which I put into fill-port.

Fill some distilled water (or coolant of your choice) into reservoir and make sure it goes right to the pump. Turn pump on to empty your reservoir and push air out of the system. Repeat... repeat... repeat until loop is full.

The last stage is check system for leaks and bleed your system (get rid of air). For that just leave pump running and visually inspect all your tubing and block, if no issues leave it overnight or at least for few hours. You can place some paper tissues here and there to see if anything leaks.

At the beginning you will hear slashing sounds and see streams of bubbles going trough your tubing and reservoir , as system clears from the air more and more sounds and bubbles will go away.

_________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

I left pump running overnight and you can see that fillport tube and even part of reservoir are got empty as air have got pushed out.

_________________
It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.

If no leaks, the very last task to make final assembly effort and start using your watercooled computer. Enjoy!

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It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.